What can you tell me about fishing stumps?

Of all the objects in the water, none seems to arouse the confidence of a bass fisherman more than an exciting-looking stump. For some reason, we all associate largemouth’s with stumps. On the other hand, some stumps can be more productive than others. As an example, a stump that sits on the edge of a drop-off will usually be better than a stump way back up in the shallows, if the depth is correct. When I say usually better; I mean on a consistent basis rather than a single experience.

Remember that the shady side of an stump, or any object for that matter, is normally better than the brighter side. At one time, bass fishermen always tried to drop a lure right on an object they were fishing. If the object was a stump, they would try to hit the stump on the cast and let the lure fall alongside. By doing this, they passed up a lot of productive water behind and alongside the object, and the sound of a lure falling over the head of a bass could spook the fish into deep water.

I prefer to make my first cast on the side and beyond the stump or object. Sometimes a bass won’t be right on it, but near it. By casting in this manner, I can cover the back, side and front with a single cast. Once the lure passes the stump and is well on its way toward the boat, you might as well crank it in and cast again. Big bass will seldom follow a lure any distance. If they want your offering, they will hit it as it comes by.

You can fish a variety of lures around stumps. Top waters, spinner baits, worms, jig-and-eels, swimming lures and diving lures can all be good choices. You are going to have to experiment to find out which ones are best for you. Keep in mind that you may have to vary the retrieve to catch fish. I have seen times when I can cast a spinner bait past a stump and buzz it by quickly; a bass would nail it before it even reached the stump. The next day in the same area the bass wouldn’t hit a spinner bait unless I buzzed it up to the stump, stopped the lure dead and let it fall. They would have it in their mouth before it dropped a foot.

The second cast around a stump should still be beyond it, but the lures should brush the object as it passes. There is no guarantee that a bass will hit your lure on the first or second cast, even if the fish is there. You may have to cast six or eight times before you get a strike, and change lures in the process. That is bass fishing and there is no shortcut to success.

What entices/causes fish to strike?

Hunger is one thing, of course. But there are reaction strikes and anger strikes, too. Contrary to the belief of some fishermen, a bass does not merely open its mouth and swim through baitfish in a random manner. In order to strike, a fish must isolate a specific victim and then pursue it.

At the same time, a fish is more prone to select a prey that appears disabled or that looks different from others. Remember this when considering your retrieve or presentation.

How important is casting accuracy?

Every competent bass angler I have ever known was an extremely accurate caster. The can place the lure exactly where they want time after time. They also have thorough knowledge of their tackle, whether it is spinning, bait-casting or a fly rod.

You will discover the ability to drop a bait on the exact spot you want to fish to mean more fish on a consistent basis.

Remember it is a learned routine that takes practice and lots of it.

How can I improve my fishing skills?

Here are several ways:

• Select balanced tackle for specific conditions and learn how to use it;
• Practice your casting on a regular basis in your back yard and with different weights;
• Learn to be patient—things don’t always develop as quickly as you would like;
• Lean to concentrate and forget about what you have got to do or didn’t do—only think about what you are doing now;
• Be observant—look, listen and feel—good anglers develop all these senses which naturally improve their skills;
• Fish with as many knowledgeable fishermen as you can and ask lots of questions;
• Keep a fishing log and record of your trips, note conditions, presentations, baits used, etc.
• Fish as often as you can;
• Learn to fish different types of water—lowland, midland, highland as well as moving water;
• And learn as much as you can about the specific species you are pursuing.

Can you tell me anything about the pre-spawn period? How long does it last?

The pre-spawn period can be shorter than a month in some areas. In others it could last two or more months, which has as much to do with night temperatures as anything.
Normally during the pre-spawn period you will have more dark hours than bright hours, meaning the nights are colder. Colder water is more dense than warm water.
So what the warm spring sun does to the water during the shorter day periods, the darkness chills back down.

Once the nights warm into the high 40- to 50-degree range, day temps will normally average 20-25 degrees warmer and that is what triggers bass to start moving shallower.
The timing and length of this period depends upon geographic location and other natural influences that affect bass behavior. Remember, fish movement and feeding patterns may not always be predictable, especially during this period.

But the more you go, the more you will learn about the pre-spawn stage and what triggers bass to respond to location patterns, temperature, certain lures and presentations.
Without question water temperature is the number one key to the pre-spawn period. Look for areas that are protected from strong cold winds and that receive lots of sunshine.

What is the “Countdown Method”?

The countdown method is an important step in fishing any lure that sinks. Naturally, there will be exceptions and variations, but basically a lure falls in water at the rate of one foot per second. The instant the lure hits the surface of the water, retrieve any slack line, keeping the rod tip out in front of you and start counting, “one thousand and one, one thousand and two, etc. until you reach 10. At that point your lure should be about 10 feet deep. If you let it go all the way to the bottom on the first cast, you can approximate the depth of the water.

To catch fish you must concern yourself with the depth at which the fish are to be found at a given time and the depth at which your lure is swimming. The idea is to work the lure just above the fish, or at the same level. Naturally, this method can vary depending upon the size of the line and weight of the lure, but on the average it is accurate.

What is the importance of hesitating after a top water strike?

When a fish hits a top water bait it is critical to wait that extra second or two until you feel the fish. This is one of the hardest things to learn about this type of fishing—you have to give the bass enough time to get the plug into his mouth so you can get good hook penetration when you set the hook.

When a fish hits a top water lure, regardless of what kind it is, it is sucking in water, air and your lure all at the same time. And if the fish is in vegetation, the fish has that to cope with too. You have to hesitate—just a little.

Can you give me some tips on growing big fish in my own pond?

Sure, I can. Fertilizing your pond promote the growth of phytoplankton, the first link in the pond's food chain. Phytoplankton is eaten by zooplankton, the tiny animals or microscopic organisms in the water column that are eaten crustacean and small fish. Naturally, these in turn feed larger fish. So by providing nutrients to phytoplankton you are actually stimulating the entire pond community.

A good fertile pond can increase growth rate 3 to 4 times as opposed to a pond that is not fertile. It is important to remember that a body of water must maintain at least 20 parts per million or lime or alkalinity for proper phytoplankton growth.

Some ponds are naturally well buffered, others may need periodic liming. In early spring before you begin fertilizing it is best to check with your local NRCF office, or contact a professional pond management company for advice.

OK, another key suggestion is supplemental feeding.

Catfish, bluegill and baitfish and many other species all benefit directly from this. These fish utilize feed extremely efficiently. In the proper environment fish can convert feed at a 2.1 ratio, producing a full pound of weight gain for each 2 pounds of feed. Fish that are fed grow faster and have increased reproductive potential too.

Fish can be hand fed or by using a quality built automatic feeder, which dispense a selected amount of feed during specified time throughout the day, that are very effective and reduce time and labor.

Feeding with 32% flowing food usually begins in the spring when the surface temperature hits the 60-degree range and feeding should continue until the water temperature reaches the mid 80s. It is best to reduce the amount of feed when water temperature exceed 85 degrees, and do no feed at all when water temps exceed 90 degrees, or during hot, still, cloudy days when phytoplankton is not capable of producing oxygen.

All right, what about winter-feeding when the water temps are below 60-50 degree range, should you continue to feed? Good question. It is true; fish can get by on 1/10th the food intake during the good water periods. However, it is smart to feed year round, but during the winter switch to sinking food and feed small portions only a couple of times a week. By doing this you will have a healthier fish come spring for better reproduction.

What do you do when a bass wraps you up in cover?

Apply the same amount of pressure to the fish that it is putting on you. Once a fish goes to cover, I take a battle stance of sorts — I hold tight with my rod in an upward position. If it pulls down 2 feet, I pull back 2 feet. Notice I said pull, not reel. If you continue to reel you will eventually reel the fish up so tight against the cover that it won’t be able to swim. And remember, in order to have any chance of landing a fish in cover, the fish has to be able to swim itself free.

You should be able to free 75 percent of the bass you hook following this procedure. Of course you want to have a stout rod and line to back you up, too. Remember, pull don’t reel.

I am missing fish quite often. Have any useful bass fishing techniques?

The first thing is to be sure your hooks are really sharp. Also, before you set the hook on any fish, the line, the rod tip and the fish must be semi-perfectly tight. Slack line prevents the action of the rod from being transmitted to the hook.

Any strike on an artificial plug is a direct take…that is, the bass intends to swallow it directly. You can be sure the fish is not about to hold the plug in its mouth, play with it and then swallow it. I know there are exceptions with plastic lures and jigs…bass tend to hold on to them longer.
But they won’t do this with hard lures. Fish quickly realize these baits aren’t real and spit them out. Yet it takes longer than you think.

When a bass opens its mouth to hit any bait or lure, he is also swallowing water. In fact, the bait really floats into his mouth and it will continue to float while the excess water is being expelled through the gills.

Usually, a fish won’t detect an artificial lure until it has ejected the water and clamps down on the bait.

The major mistake made by fishermen using artificial baits is to set the hook too quickly. Now, don’t misunderstand and believe that you have LOTS of time. You don’t. But you do have much more time than you would expect. So, if you think you are missing fish that you should be hooking, hesitate a little, because it does work.

What is the key to successful fishing?

If we new it all…how to catch them every trip it would become boring. Too much of a good thing? Well, on second thought, maybe not for some of us? But really the frustration/figuring-them-out factor is what makes fishing fun.

But here are the six basic “right” things to remember for more successful fishing trips: Put the right lure with the right size and right color in the right place at the right depth and then make the right retrieve and you will catch more fish than most anglers on the water. Heck, there is no way that many rights can be wrong!

Additional Spinner Baits

In a clear water environment, especially calm, clear water, the surface has a mirror effect and light color spinnerbait have the tendency to blend in with it, making it somewhat more difficult for bass below to actually see the lure. Most spinnerbait anglers fish these baits above the fish and this alone can create short strikes, and making it more difficult for the bass to zero in, for a clean hit - I personally do much better on darker colors that silhouette against the sky - - Even in choppy water this is critical, unless the lure is fish somewhat deeper and even better when low light condition exist.

When fishing a spinnerbait in clear water, it's important to pay attention to the lures head design and color - - Blades do for sure produce vibration and flash for attention, but bass attack the head and skirt of a moving object and this is why spinnerbaits hook bass so well. The skirt is pulsating and the blade or blades become a blur, but the head basically stays still. I honestly feel bass zero in on the head, so the more realistic it looks, the more attractive it will be. Take the eyes for instance they are very important since bass use them as a focal point for striking. Even a touch of red on the throat or gills on the head can make the lure even more attractive.

It's also important to remember when fishing spring clear water that too much flash from metallic blades can be a turn off and can actually spook bass.

Lure companies offer a wide selection of blade combination, head designs and colors but most will tell you that most of their sales are basis chartreuse, white, or combinations of white and chartreuse.

However, natural colors are beginning to find their way into more and more tackle boxes.

Rainbow trout models are in huge demand out west, while crawfish patterns are doing well down south as well as shad, perch, and baby bass and shiners.

Along the east coast silver and blue that imitate alewives is strong, like yellow perch patterns up north.

Fire tiger has always been an excellent tri-color (lime, chartreuse, orange) where sunfish are a favorite forage.

Most forage is similar, with silver, some turquoise, some blue and green and a touch of gold or yellow including shiners, shad, alewives, and others.

Panfish species like bream, green sunfish, redears, pumpkinseed are also a favorite prey.

Any angler knows that bass can become very selective in their feeding habits, hitting only lures with the same colors of the existing forage. Example: a farm pond with only bluegill. Here, a bluegill pattern would work better than a shad pattern.

Two or even tri-tone spinnerbaits work very well when fished deep or near the bottom, while those fished near the surface, above the bass work better if they create a silvery baitfish look.

My decision whether to use round blades or willow-style blades is based primarily on water clarity and sunlight. If the water allows less than one-foot of visibility, it's an automatic round-blade or tandem round-blade configuration.

If the water clarity is one foot or greater there's a little sunlight, and I'm fishing the bait within 2 feet of the surface, then the choice will be willow-style blades for the added flash and sleeker profile.

Generally speaking, willow-style blades are better suited for a steady retrieve, while round blades are well-suited for steady retrieves as well as a drop bait.

It's the type of lure that will trigger reaction strikes from bass that may ignore slow moving lures, like plastic worms, lizards or jig'n pork combinations - - spinner baits have a wider zone of attraction because of the action, flash, and vibration they produce.

• ASpinner Baits can be fished faster, covering more water quicker
• ASpinner Baits draw bass into striking from a greater distance
• ASpinner Baits represent a bait fish better than most other rigs
• ASpinner Baits can be fished in a wider range of water clarities and water temperatures.
• ASpinner Baits can be fished effectively on the bottom or up several feet or move off the bottom
• ASpinner Baits are effective all seasons of the year -
• ASpinner Baits produce well with a wide range of presentations - slow rolling, free falling, bottom bouncing, etc.

Art for Drop-Shotting in Hangy Area

When drop-shotting in hangy cover areas, here's a little tip that can really save you some time.
Use a LureSaver tied to the end of the line and attach it to a standard bell weight.

Now tie another LureSaver O-ring directly to your line, at the point where you would tie on your hook, this also gives your bait much more fish attracting action.

Whenever your weight or your hook gets snagged the LureSaver will release, by pulling straight against your line, allowing you to retrieve your rig minus the snagged hook, or weight. Like I said, this saves you rigging time and your terminal tackle . . .

A Dependable Fall Pattern

If you were to ask any serious bass fisherman what’s the number one thing they look for during the fall when fishing a large impoundment, nearly all would tell you the number one thing would be baitfish! It’s a case of the predator following its prey. During this period of the year, baitfish like the thread-fin shad are the perfect size and tend to concentrate in huge schools. They’re much easier to locate than individual bass. Find them and you’ll usually find several bass. It’s not uncommon to limit out by just following a large, single school of shad.

During the fall, as water temperatures begin to cool down, shad minnows are the first to migrate to the coves, hollows and creek arms. Guess who’s gonna be following soon after? That’s right — the bass! Often, you’ll be able to see the baitfish just below the surface with your naked eye. This is where polarized sunglasses can really pay off. Sometimes they’ll be churning the surface with bass hot on their tails. Other times, you’ll need to locate them and the depth they’re using on your graph. This is one of the most dependable of all fall bass patterns, and surprisingly, a high percentage of bass fishermen don’t realize that so much centers around baitfish during this time.

Unless a cove is particularly large, with plenty of deep water, it will produce the greatest number of fish in the spring or fall months of the year. Coves are far more protected than the open lake, and for that reason they’ll warm up much more quickly in the spring and cool off faster in the fall. These temperature differences between a typical cove and the main lake are enough to attract baitfish in a mighty big way. The bass will not only shadow the baitfish for food, but most times find the water temperature more to their liking, making them more active than those in the warmer waters of the main lake.

One of the key reasons coves, hollows and creek arms attract shad during the fall is spawning. There are two spawning seasons for the threadfin shad. One takes place in the early to mid-spring time frame and the other in early to mid-fall. Naturally, the exact dates, of course, depend on latitude. Things are going to happen earlier in the North than they will in the South, but that’s merely timing. This spawning phenomenon we were discussing creates a tremendous amount of both big and small baitfish at a time of year when the early spring hatch of shad have grown too large for smaller bass to forage on. This bounty of young shad minnows draw all size bass into these cooler water areas. Just like spring, fall is a transitional period, and it’s important to constantly modify your lure selection and techniques to take maximum advantage of the weather, and changing water temperatures.

There’s no doubt that the fall season can be one of the finest times of the year to fish. Not only is it a comfortable time for the fisherman, it’s a pleasant time for the fish as well. Some say it’s the shorter photo period; others point out that the sun has moved south and the rays are no longer directly overhead, even at noon; while still others will tell you it’s the dropping water temperatures.

Whatever the reason, it’s a great time! So, before winter grips the landscape, grab your rod and reel, find yourself a channel cove with shad and get ready for an exciting time.

Deep-Water Spinner-Baiting

There is absolutely no telling how many bass are caught on spinnerbaits each year. And I would be willing to bet my fa­vorite casting rod the major­ity of those bass are caught in less than five feet of water.

There’s a good reason for this — the majority of anglers who utilize these versatile baits fish them in depths of less than five feet. But I’m here to tell you those bass that live down deep like them just as well.

One of my most productive techniques throughout the year involves the art of probing deep structure with a spinner­bait.

How do you go about catch­ing bass when they are deep? Your first thought would be a jig-and-pork combination, or maybe a plastic worm, grub or lizard rigged with a heavy sinker — or possibly a jigging spoon or blade bait like a Sonar. Or per­haps a deep-div­ing crankbait. All of these lures are proven fish-catchers, but there are times when bass can become very se­lective and are not triggered by those of­ferings, but will aggres­sively attach a spinnerbait.

This method of fishing is a technique that I’ve got a tremen­dous amount of confi­dence in a system I’ve used for years. But recently, I’ve found myself rely­ing on it much more often, especially in older lakes where the cover has eroded and the bass have moved deeper to key structural features.

Fishing spinnerbaits deep provides an excellent way to search for bass quicker than with a plastic worm, jig or other slow-presentation lures. And it allows you to feel for cover areas along or near the structure you’re fishing.

Also, bass can become very selective in their feeding habits, yet these are the times when I’ve seen a spinnerbait out­shine just about anything you could use when fished deep. There are several solid reasons for this special allure:

• A spinnerbait is the type of lure that can trigger reaction strikes from bass that might ig­nore slow-moving lures like plastic worms, lizards or a jig-and-pork combination.
• These bladed baits have a wider zone of attraction be­cause of the action, flash and vibration they produce.
• Spinnerbaits can be fished faster, covering more water than most other lures.
• Spinnerbaits draw bass into striking from a greater dis­tance.
• Spinnerbaits represent a bait­fish better than most other rigs.
• These lures can be fished in a wider range of water clarity and water temperatures.
• They can be fished effec­tively on the bottom or up sev­eral feet (or more) off the bottom.
• Spinnerbaits are effective all seasons of the year.
• Spinnerbaits produce well with a wide range of presenta­tions, including slow-rolling, free-falling and bottom-bounc­ing.

When fishing depths of 15 to 20 feet or deeper, my choice of spinnerbait is a Booyah, which is made of practically in­destructible titanium, of at least 3/4-ounce in weight. And if there is a current or if windy condi­tions exist, I’ll switch to a 1-ounce size for better feel and control. Heavier-sized baits also help keep the lure deep during the retrieve.

Selecting the right blade or blade combination for deep-wa­ter spinnerbaiting depends a lot on the time of year. Dur­ing the warmer water months when bass are most aggressive, I will select spinnerbait with medium-sized willowleaf blades, simply because they have less lift and are much easier to keep deep at faster retrieve speeds than rounded style blades. Since wil­lowleaf blades have less water resis­tance and spin faster, you have to retrieve them somewhat faster than you do other blade styles.

Willowleaf models are among the easiest to fish deep. When fishing them in open water, I make a long cast. Once the lure hits the water, I pull back slightly, keeping a semi-tight line so I can feel for any change during the fall (especially a strike). Once the bait reaches the bottom, I give it a short jerk to be sure the blades are turning. I then be­gin a slow retrieve, occasion­ally stop­ping the lure to allow it to stay in contact with the bottom. It is im­portant that blade or blades are spinning and the lure is follow­ing the bottom contour.

I normally use a willowleaf model during the warmer months in deep, clear water. But during the coldest periods of the year, I’ve had much better success with a round-style single blade like a Col­orado or Oklahoma. These types of blades produce a stronger beat or thump and can be fished much slower for cold, sluggish bass.

When fishing a rounded blade, I cast it out and care­fully watch my set-tight line as the lure falls to the desired depth. Once it hits the bottom, I give it a slight jerk to get the blade turn­ing. Then I begin reeling it sev­eral feet before pausing and lift­ing my rod tip to let the lure fall back down to the bot­tom (which is normally less than 18 feet). I then work the bait in this yo-yoing fash­ion all the way back to the boat. It’s important to stay in contact with the lure at all times with a semi-tight line sim­ply because the majority of the strikes will occur as the lure free-falls back to the bottom.

Spinnerbaits, by design, have a tendency to ride up on the re­trieve, but there are a few tricks you can do to help eliminate this.

If you find yourself having trouble keeping your lure deep as you work it along the bot­tom, you might try down-siz­ing your blade or blades. Smaller blades don’t have as much lift, allowing you to get a smoother presenta­tion and keep your bait in the strike zone longer. Give it a try, and you might be surprised at the results.

If the deep structure you are targeting will permit it, you will have much better success in keeping your spinnerbait close to the bottom by working it from shallow to deep versus deep to shal­low. Working up the terrain is much easier than traveling down it. But I should point out that you run the risk of hanging up more often if there is cover pre­sent.

Another advantage to posi­tion­ing your boat shallow and cast­ing out into deeper water occurs once you have hooked a bass. There is a tendency for other bass to follow a hooked fish. By pulling the bass from deep to shallow, the trailing bass move a certain distance, but then quickly return to their original location. When you hook a bass and bring it out over the deeper water, the fol­lowing fish be­come disori­ented and it takes them much longer to regroup back to their origi­nal spot.

I’ve seen this happen many, many times. I’m convinced you will catch more fish from a deep-wa­ter area by fishing from shallow to deep.
When spinnerbaiting deep structure or cover, perhaps the most important element is your level of concentration during the presentation. You’ve got to stay tuned in to what your lure is do­ing at all times. Your pre­senta­tion should be slow and steady, with an occasional drop to main­tain bottom con­tact.

Patience is the key word with this type of fishing. It takes time for the lure to drop 20 feet, and it takes patience to slow-roll the spinnerbait along the bottom. But if you are willing to work at it, your pa­tience will be consis­tently re­warded.

Avoid overpowering your re­trieve by reeling too quickly. I find that I do much better with a lower-gear ratio reel. This type of reel, such as a Quantum 4.4 to 1, forces me to fish slower and provides me more power once I get a fish on.

For deep spinnerbaiting, my rod choice is a 6-1/2 to 7-foot IM6 graphite Quantum Dance class baitcast rod with a medium-heavy action. This type of action and length pro­vides more sensi­tivity and power for a solid hookset and fighting a big bass from deep water. The extra length pro­vides more distance to help take up more line on the hook­set.

The longer rod also helps you get a big bass up and out of thick places, which is impor­tant with this type of fishing. And it al­lows you to reel down and punch off a lure that is hung on the cover.
With this particular type of fishing, it is important to use a low-stretch line with a small di­ameter like 12-14 pound test. Any line test above 14-pound creates addi­tional friction, which can hurt the maximum depth of the bait and cut the distance of each cast. Anything greater than 14-pound test is not advisable because of the stretch factor, which can af­fect your feel for the lure and hamper the hookset.

Deep spinnerbaiting has pro­duced for me in a variety of structure/cover situations.
I’ve caught a world of bass by bouncing a big spinnerbait off stumps and rocks along a deep-wa­ter ledge. Any broken rocks, boulders or riprap can be perfect for spinnerbaiting.
In the summertime, you can often load the boat by target­ing deep grass patches with a heavy spin­nerbait. If you have vegeta­tion growing on the bottom in 10 to 12 feet of wa­ter, for example, concen­trate on counting the bait down to the top of that grass, and then retrieve it so the spin­nerbait ticks the top as it comes through the water. If I know I’m coming to the edge of this sub­merged grass bed, I’ll slow the bait down and try to shake it off that edge where there is likely to be a bass or two wait­ing.

With submerged grass, the key is to either skirt the top of the weeds or parallel the edges and any irregular feature like a cut, pocket or point in the weeds.
Regardless of the situation, it is important not to just straight reel the spinnerbait. Your suc­cess will be a lot greater if you speed up and slow down and do erratic things with that spinner­bait as you re­trieve it.

Standing timber is another sit­uation where deep-spinner­baiting can out-produce other tech­niques. With the right ap­proach, a spinnerbait can be an outstanding choice for the kinds of places usually re­served for jigs and plastic worms. In this situation, I cast the bait to the trunk of the tree, let it sink to the bottom, and then pump it a foot or so off the bottom. Then I let it settle to the bottom again. I fish it similar to the way you might work a worm in deep water. All during the retrieve, I’ll pull it up until it hits a few limbs and then release it.This method will often catch difficult summertime bass that are suspended in deep brush or trees.

Deep spinnerbait places a premium on concentration and patience. If you just can’t wait for that bladed bait to sink deep or are unable to maintain a slow, methodical retrieve, you will have little suc­cess with this tech­nique. But if you have what it takes to slow down and probe the depths, you just might catch more deep bass on spinnerbaits than you ever did with the lures in the shallows—espe­cially during the inactive times.

Overlooked Waters

Sometimes opportunities don’t stand up and shout. More often, you have to hunt for ’em, and sometimes they’ll surprise you by being right un­der your nose. That’s the way it is with bass fishing and water­shed lakes.

These miniature bodies of water dot the countryside of nearly every state, but many an­glers usually ignore them in fa­vor of bigger and better publi­cized lakes. Yet these little bod­ies of water can provide unbe­lievable bass catches.

I personally love to fish wa­tershed lakes; always have. Watershed lakes are easy to pattern and offer excep­tional big bass potential. They’re the best bass fishing has to offer in a small package. These lakes vary in size, from less than five acres to 1,500 and more, but they contain the same array of struc­ture found in the major reser­voirs: submerged cover, humps, channel drops, points, vegetation and timber to name a few.

It’s important to pay atten­tion to the slightest change in depth. A two- to three-foot drop in a small wa­tershed lake with an otherwise slick bottom is a major struc­ture in that lake. Always re­late the size and amount of struc­ture to the size of the lake, and never overlook seemingly in­significant structure in these lakes.

Speaking of the slightest change in depth, here is an example of the type area where we have located some bass:

Let’s say a very shallow flat-bottom point extends way out from the shore­line with a little cover on it. The depth graduates slowly from two feet at the bank on out to about four feet, then quickly drops off. The break­line is only about two feet, but it’s enough to hold bass. An­other attractive part of this area is a few submerged stumps that are positioned 2-4 feet deep.
While these lakes are small, they really possess the same characteristics as larger lakes. Most of them are located with structure, and like a big body of water, some are productive and some are not.

No doubt about it, watershed lakes make a great training ground for learning more about the habits and habitats of bass.

A great many anglers en­joyed their first taste of bass fishing in a small soil conser­vation lake, ei­ther fishing from the shore or from a small boat. These little lakes are great teachers. Because of their small size, they’re relatively easy to establish a pattern on, so the angler can gain the confidence that only comes from catching bass. Bass are usually easy to locate in these lakes; unfortu­nately, this also makes them prone to being fished out or thinned down easily.

Hundreds of water­shed lakes may exist in a single region of a state. The good part is, you have lots of va­riety; the bad part is, you might pick a lake that’s past its prime. When fishing these lakes, learn to keep a watchful eye on the fish, because their forage and the quality and condition of the wa­ter can vary. Many times you can tell when the lake is out of balance simply by looking at the fish you catch. If I catch a lot of bass and they are all the same size in a older lake, or if I catch any bass with big heads, I can tell quick that something is not right in this lake.

As I stated earlier, there are a lot of good fish produced in wa­tershed lakes, and there are poor ones. Some of the best I’ve fished are those with sea­sonal fluctuation of water lev­els and with a drawdown of several feet. New plant growth takes place along the edge, and in the shallower portions of the upper reaches moss, grass and minute vegetation appears. Then when the lake level rises during late spring rains, this new growth provides excellent forage for bass or all kinds of life, in­cluding bass fry. Tiny micro­scopic organisms gather on the plant, helping to pro­mote rapid growth of newly hatched bass.

Just in case you’re not fa­miliar with the term watershed lake, let me tell you what it is. It’s the land area on which water drains to a given point. It serves two primary functions, flood control and soil conser­vation. On the land, water that does not evaporate or soak into the soil usually drains into ditches, creeks or lakes.

Now if the water runs off the land too fast, it can cut gulleys and carry off precious topsoil, and too much water running too fast causes flooding. Channels become choked with sediment. Naturally choked-up channels carry less water, and the chances of flooding be­come worse.
To combat those problems, small- to medium-size dams were constructed on ditches and creeks prone to flooding, caus­ing the runoff to slow down and erode the soil car­ried with the water to be trapped there. Water­shed lakes, unlike reservoirs, are dispos­able and are built to last a lim­ited lifespan, usually 100 years or less. They are designed to fill up with sediment.

Don’t ever discount these lakes in your quest for a qual­ity bass fishing experience. While fishing a big impound­ment in a comfortable bass rig has its benefits, there is some­thing spe­cial about fishing small waters, and the thousands of wa­tershed lakes nationwide offer a vast, often untapped re­source of bass fishing. Investi­gate the po­tential of a water­shed lake soon—you might just discover that dy­namite does come in small pack­ages.

Three Key Words

Three key words come to mind when fishin’ for bass. One is depth, another is loca­tion and the third is presenta­tion. In fact, it’s that way with any fish. Those three words must be ap­plied to every fish­ing trip you make if you’re going to be suc­cessful.

Finding the right depth is per­haps the single most impor­tant factor in bass fishing. If you’re not fishing the cor­rect depth, you’re really wasting your time. Sure, you may catch a fish here and one there, but you can bet, the ma­jority of fish in the area you’re fishing will select and use a preferred depth.

Naturally, the better you know a lake, the easier it’s going to be in determining the correct depth on a given day. There re­ally isn’t an easy way to find the right depth, but there are a few tips that might shorten the time.

One would be trial and er­ror. Begin fishing different depth levels until you catch at least a couple of fish. Then concentrate your time fishing that depth in that area. If you change areas to a different part of the lake, you may have to repeat the same pro­cedure.

Another way is to ask the boat dock operator or a local fishing guide, or even an an­gler whom you see on the lake or who has just re­turned to the dock. The most im­portant question you can ask is what depth he caught his fish and what area of the lake he’s fishing. Surprisingly, many will share this information with you.

Another key way to estab­lish­ a depth is perhaps the best of all, and that’s relying on a depth finder.

This unit will not only show you the depth, it’ll show you fish, the depth they’re using and even the cover they’re posi­tioned in.

The best fisherman around can fish the best bait in the world, but if he’s fishing the wrong depth, he won’t catch many fish. At the right depth, almost anyone can catch fish, if he’s fishing the right loca­tion with the proper lure for that loca­tion and using the cor­rect presen­tation. Depth is dictated by the food supply, oxygen content, water temp, time of day and even time of year.

Once you learn the ideal depth, you must then learn the best location in the area of the lake you’re fishing at that depth. It could be a point, a ledge, a high spot, a sloping bank, or it could be emerged, like a boat dock, bushes, vege­tation or standing timber. It’s important to remember whatever depth and location you fish, it should have deeper water close by. Note, I didn’t say deep water. All we’re talking about here is what the majority of fish are do­ing at the same time in a pre­ferred depth and location.

Now, let’s discuss that other key word: presentation. Once a depth and location are found, naturally you’ll have to select a lure that can be fished ef­fec­tively there. Regardless of what lure you choose, a worm, crankbait, grub, spin­ner­bait or whatever, it must be fished in a way that’s most ap­pealing, es­pecially when bass are inactive.

If you think about it, most of the time we’re on the water, the bass’ activity level is inac­tive or neutral more of­ten than it’s active. When they’re feeding ... fishing can be fan­tastic, but when the action is slow, precise presenta­tions are a must for success.

One thing I’d like to point out about lure presenta­tion is when bass are really ag­gressive, your presentation does­n’t have to be per­fect. However, it should be pre­sented to represent life. You want to make it look alive in a natural way.

You’ll find that most under­water creatures don’t skip, jump, hop and speed around. Their movements are basically slow unless, of course, some­thing big is hot on their trail.
Here’s something else that might surprise you. If you only knew the number of bass that actually see your lure and pay little attention to it, it would absolutely blow your mind.

The disappointing fact is that most of the time, bass re­ally don’t want our bait, unless we fish the best location and present our offering just right. This is why it’s so important to present it in a way that’s most appeal­ing. This takes pa­tience, imagination and concen­tration.

Since we’re discussing lure presentations, let me ask you this question. How many times have you been fishing with a buddy, using the same bait, same color and size, but the re­sults were not the same? It happens all the time. Most of us think to ourselves that he’s fishin’ the best spots, or it’s just bad luck. However, there’s usu­ally a solid answer to this ques­tion.

This is particularly true in bass fishing. By presentation I mean the way in which the bait is offered. Are you moving it too slow? Not slow enough? Too fast? Or not fast enough? Bass are finicky little creatures, and they are even more so when they’re in­ac­tive.

You must establish a rhythm for that time, but keep in mind that can change from time to time and also in differ­ent loca­tions.

Let me tell you,there’s a lot more involved in your presen­tation than just blowin’ and a-goin’ down the lake, chunking a lure here and there. It’s very impor­tant to put some thought into every move you make.

When a good fisherman catches a fish, he immediately begins a mental game.

• What just happened here?
• Exactly where did the fish hit in rela­tion to the cover?
• How deep was he?
• Did the hit occur as I changed lure speeds, or when I let it fall, rise or flutter?
• Was the fish on the windy side of the cover, the outside edge or backside?
• How far was my cast?
• Do I need to reposi­tion my boat?
• Am I too close or not close enough?
  

Good anglers can put all the pieces of this sport together quickly, and this is why they catch the majority of the fish. They an­alyze it all: why the bass hit, how and where it hit.

There’s one thing I’ve learned over the years about this great sport. You can’t buy, bor­row, charge or steal fishing suc­cess. Success is based solely on knowledge and experience.

Good anglers work and study hard to be consistent; but even then, they’re never 100 percent successful, regardless of how much they know. But you can bet those who have lots of ex­pe­rience, knowledge and con­fi­dence, will fish more care­fully, more thoroughly, more effi­ciently, more comfortably; there­fore, more successfully. In the end, they’ll catch a lot more fish, especially if they never forget just how impor­tant those three key words are: depth, lo­ca­tion and presenta­tion.

Try These Tips For Post-Spawn Crappie

Spring is the season when ev­ery angler becomes a bona fide crappie expert.
In late March and early April in many parts of the country as the water warms up into the mid-50s to low 60s, a massive influx of spawning crappie move shal­low to make beds and lay their eggs. They create a standing room-only situation along shal­low, visible shoreline cover like willow trees, brush, logs and vegeta­tion.

During this time the world abounds with crappie experts, be­cause almost any fisherman can catch these tasty pan­fish when they are spawning. Al­though the crappie is primarily a deep-water, off­shore species, the annual spring spawning migration makes them espe­cially vulnerable by station­ing them in obvious, common-sense places where the neo­phyte angler can find them. And the protective nature of the fish—like most freshwater gamefish—makes it easier to catch during the spawn.

All the world is a carnival during the spawn, but immedi­ately after the spawn, it is as if Freddie Krueger comes to town to make a movie called, “Nightmare on Your Crappie Lake.” And a nightmare is what it is. Crappie fishing becomes the toughest it will be all season, even for the knowl­edgeable, ex­perienced anglers who are able to follow the crappie migration throughout the year.

Post-spawn crappie are the most difficult to catch.
“That’s a common problem in most lakes,” says Steve Mc­Cadams, one of the country’s most renowned crappie guides. “And that’s one reason why some people actually believe crappie only bite in the spring.

“Of course, that is a com­mon fallacy that was even written about for years. You can under­stand their way of thinking be­cause they’ll really catch them during the spawn, but when that post-spawn pe­riod comes in, the fishing be­gins to get tougher each week on the same shoreline bushes where they had slayed them a few days earlier. Every week­end, they find fewer fish there, and by late May they can hardly catch enough to take home and stink up a skil­let. They say ‘Well, the season is over,’ and put away their poles.”

Even high-caliber crappie ex­perts like McCadams, who guides on the famed slab-crappie Mecca Kentucky Lake, admits that post-spawn crappie often baffle him.

There is a three-to-four-week period that usually oc­curs in late May and early June in most of the country in which crappie go into a recu­peration period to re­juvenate from the rigors of the spawn­ing process. To under­stand why they are difficult to catch and, hopefully, use that knowl­edge to improve your post-spawn success, a little biol­ogy lesson is in order.

Immediately after spawning, biologists tell us the fe­male crappie leave the nest and move off onto nearby brush or vegeta­tion. After a short stay in shal­low water, the females then move to the nearest mid-depth drop-off or vegeta­tion. The males are left to guard the eggs and eventually the fry, until the tiny fish scatter and do what sci­entists have never been able to actually document. After leaving the fry, the males and females will regroup during the later stages of the post-spawn period before then moving to their summer posi­tioning in deeper water.

You can begin to compre­hend the reasons why post-spawn crappie are so difficult to catch. It begins with the challenge of finding them. That can be tricky because of the lack of concen­trated fe­males immediately after the spawn. It becomes more dif­fi­cult as the wide-ranging ten­dencies of the species moves them into less-conspicuous places—even suspending in open water. This in-between stage for crappie separates the true experts from the instant springtime experts. And once you locate post-sp­awn crappie, it can be an even greater challenge to get them to bite.

“Post-spawn crappie are tough to catch for the same reasons that post-spawn bass are difficult to catch,” explains Oklahoma’s Ken Cook, best known as one of America’s elite tournament bass pros, but a crappie enthusiast who stud­ied the species exten­sively during his days as a state fish­eries biologist. “The reasons begin with the fact that they are hard to find, but they cer­tainly don’t end there.

“First of all, Mother Nature provides a fail-safe mechanism in sunfishes, of which crappie are a member. That is, they don’t eat while they’re on the bed. So during a portion of the post-spawn period, the fish still have that in­grained in them. And they’re tired and lethargic from the stress they go through during the spawning process.”

Cook’s first approach to catching post-spawn crappie is to avoid fishing for them. In­stead, he moves around the lake and con­centrates on spawners for as long as possi­ble before turning his attention to the post-spawn fish. It is the same process that many bass anglers use to avoid being con­fronted with the slug­gish post-spawn members of that species. You can accomplish that by simply following the natural heating cycle of a lake and reser­voir. Start on the northern banks, bays and protected coves where the water warms up the earliest in the spring, and take tempera­ture readings to find spawning water (about 64 to 70 degrees) throughout the lake.

“But eventually, we all have to face up to post-spawn crap­pie,” Cook laments. Locating post-spawn crappie is the first test of skill and pa­tience. Post-spawn crappie move off into deeper water, but not to the depths in which they will ride out the summer tempera­tures. Cook looks for them along any drop-off adjacent to the shallow spawning area that has some type of wood or weedy cover.

There are three areas where post-spawn crappie are espe­cially abundant, according to the experts:

• The mouths of bays. When crappie leave the shallow back of the spawning bays, they usually move out to the en­trance of the bay where it meets the main lake. Look for them to hold around vegeta­tion, brush or wooden structure on drop-offs bordering the open lake.

• Creek mouths. Crappie that have spawned along the shore­lines of a creek will move to the mouth of the creek and hold along brush or weedy cover that is positioned along a change in depth. A key to lo­cating these fish is re­member­ing that stressed crappie will avoid the current from the creek. They will usually be positioned off to the side of the creek mouth where the water is calmer.

• Steep shorelines. In shore­lines that have varying degrees of depth (like a long point), crappie will use struc­ture on the shallowest portion to spawn and then move to brush or vegetation in deeper water for the post-spawn re­cuperation period.

• If adequate cover isn’t avail­able nearby, many post-spawn crappie simply suspend in open water—the panfish spe­cialist’s nightmare.

McCadams has utilized knowledge gleaned by a study of post-spawn crappie by Mis­souri state biologists to catch more of the non-aggressive fish. In that study, divers doc­umented the movement of crappie from pre- through post-spawn periods in the clear waters of several Mis­souri reservoirs. To McCadams, the most telling discovery the biol­ogists made was a ten­dency of post-spawn crappie to devi­ate from their normal struc­ture-oriented pattern, scattering and moving off into open-wa­ter flats where they are simply sus­pend.

Although most post-spawn crappie are found in depths of 10 to 20 feet, I should empha­size that the clearer the water, the deeper post-spawn fish will sus­pend.

“Crappie suspend a little dif­ferent from bass,” Cook ex­plains. “They pick out a level and suspend uniformly at that level throughout that portion of the lake. Crappie suspend like a blanket—side by side at the same depth—while large­mouths, white bass and almost any other gamefish tend to be grouped at all levels of depth. Depending on what that level is, they will suspend above struc­ture like a brushpile, in­stead of relating directly to it. That is why a lot of people miss suspended crappie. They fish under them.”

The depth at which post-spawn crappie suspend is di­rectly at­tributable to two natu­ral factors in the makeup of the water col­umn—the ther­mocline and pH breakline. The thermocline is the water tem­perature level that is most com­fortable to fish (meaning it has adequate oxygen as well), while the pH breakline is the point in which the level of al­kalinity and acidity in the wa­ter is acceptable.

By measuring those two fac­tors, you can determine the likely depth of the fish. To determine the depth of the thermocline, lower a tempera­ture gauge probe down until you reach a point of signifi­cant change. Note that depth and check for a pH break­line, which will pinpoint the depth of the fish even further. A thermocline can have a varia­tion in depth of 5 to 10 feet, but the pH breakline (which will be lo­cated in the upper part of the thermocline) will be in a 2-3 foot zone.

“They will stay at that depth until some factor changes,” Cook adds. “The sunlight level can change, which causes the photosynthesis to change, which will alter the composi­tion of the water column—ei­ther the oxy­gen, pH or the temperature. One of those factors will change and the fish will move up or down a foot to 10 feet to again find the level that best meets their needs.”

The next step is to locate structure at the depth indicated by those readings—although suspended crappie don’t al­ways relate to underwater ob­jects or changes in the bottom contour.

If you don’t have a tem­pera­ture probe or pH gauge, a quality depthfinder can show a thermo­cline.

The suspending nature of post-spawn crappie is the ma­jor reason why most fishermen get frustrated in their late spring/early summer efforts. Crappie anglers are structure-ori­ented and tend to move from brushpile to brushpile without fishing the open-water in be­tween. Ironically, this open wa­ter no-man’s land may be where the post-spawn­ers are holding.

That is the reason Mc­Cadams spends more time mak­ing random casts with a jig—instead of vertically fish­ing spe­cific spots—during the post-spawn period.

Trolling may be the most pro­ductive method of locating sus­pended post-spawn crappie. Trollers cover enough wa­ter to find post-spawners. When you see a large number of boats trolling, you can pretty well guess that a high per­centage of the fish are suspended, and that’s why the trollers are having suc­cess catching them.

In many parts of the coun­try, crappie fishermen use a tech­nique commonly referred to as the “spider rig” to run baits at several different levels while drifting or using trolling-motor power to cover open water. Four to eight poles are positioned all around the boat with minnows or jigs swim­ming at a variation of depth from 6 to 20 feet. After a couple of strikes at the same depth, the trollers then adjust all of their lines to fish that depth.

Trolling is the easiest way to pick up scattered, individual fish—typical post-spawn crappie.
Locating post-spawn crappie is only the first challenge. Get­ting these sluggish fish to bite can be just as difficult.

“It is the toughest time to ac­tually catch them,” Ken Cook says. “They are stressed out from spawning and they are not real interested in feed­ing. Once you find them, they are catchable as long as you suspend a jig or minnow at the right depth and keep it in front of them long enough.”
Crappie are notorious for be­ing depth-conscious. They will rarely move up or down in depth to hit a bait or lure. And fishing at the right depth is even more critical with post-spawn crappie.

For catching suspended crap­pie, most fishermen will have to use a cork or slip-bob­ber to regu­late depth. Only the most experi­enced and skilled angler can cast and retrieve a bait at the proper depth with consistency.

Two special fishing products make depth regulation simple.

Zebco has developed the Crappie Classic spinning and spincast reels that have a depth-control feature. The feature al­lows you to preset the depth from one to 40 feet and once you get a strike, you can automati­cally set the depth for the next cast.

For catching post-spawn crappie in deep, clear lakes or reservoirs, a small-diameter line like DuPont’s MagnaThin will enable you to receive more strikes than more visible types.
For decades, the standard crappie weapons have been live minnows and the simple jig—fished separately or to­gether. Both can be fished vertically or cast. And the depths of those two offerings can be easily regu­lated, making them ideal for post-spawn fishing.

When fishing for inactive crappie, the size of the jig can be very critical, and it’s wise to ex­periment. I’ve seen times when changing from a 1/8-ounce to a 1/16 -ounce jig or even a 1/32-ounce jig made a tremendous dif­ference in the number of fish caught.

A productive combination for post-spawn crappie, accord­ing to McCadams, is a small floating jig tipped with a lively minnow and weighted with a split-shot about 24 inches above it. He fishes it like a lead jig, but be­lieves its allure with these non-aggressive fish comes from its super-slow de­scent through the water.

Rather than confront the chal­lenge of locating and catching these inactive crappie, many fishermen choose to simply sit out the post-spawn period and wait for the fish to move to their structure-ori­ented summer lairs. Generally, once you can no longer find beds, the post-spawn stage is over, and it is safe for less-de­termined crappie fisher­men to return to the water.

“The best crappie fisher­man is one who can change when the fish change,” Mc­Cadams says. “Crappie don’t just disappear when the spawn ends. The best crappie fisher­man works hard enough to follow post-spawn fish through the transition period from shallow to deep, and that de­termination pays off.”

Don't Sweat, Bass Bit Best At Night

The dog days of summer are brutal on bass anglers all across the country. Our lakes, rivers and reservoirs are like hot pans of boiling water, and humidity levels make you feel like you’ve just stepped out of a hot shower and into your boat. Don’t give up, though. Instead make your next summer fishing trip under the cover of darkness — on a night-fishing expedition. Especially now that we’ve got a reprieve from the crazy holiday traffic that swarmed us on Memorial Day and is sure to show up again on the Fourth of July.

Boat traffic, jet skiers and large bass tournaments are never a nuisance at night — to the an­gler or the bass. The cover of darkness makes big bass less cautious on lakes that receive heavy daytime fishing pressure, and they move shallow to feed. And the many fish that lie dor­mant and unwilling to bite baits presented by sweaty, frustrated daytime anglers move without hesitation to the dinner table.

That’s right, just when the daytime summer heat forces most anglers to surrender, I try to turn up the heat on those big “lunar lunkers.” Often the clear-to-stained waters that are toughest and most unproductive during the day are the ones that are best after dark — especially those times close to a new or full moon phase.

The moon has a huge influ­ence on bass behavior. Unques­tionably the best time to plan a night trip is three days be­fore or after a new moon or three days before or after a full moon. The moon’s gravitational pull causes intense and well-defined feeding periods at these particu­lar lunar phases. In addition to increased feeding, a full moon al­lows for a more enjoyable trip. Everything from navigation to tying on lures becomes far easier.

As is the case during the day, bass inhabit a multitude of loca­tions at night, but because of the summer heat, the areas closest to deep water offer the most consis­tent populations of active fish. These areas allow bass to move shallow to gorge themselves on many types of prey such as crawfish, that also be­come most active under a full moon. Then, as night turns into day temperatures rise and the jet skiers wake up, bass can easily retreat to deeper, cooler waters.
As far as what lures to tie on, I keep it real simple. In the same way that a golfer always takes an entire bag of clubs to the course but needs only four or five clubs to play a successful round, I could fit all the necessary lures for night-fishing in a small paper bag.

The common thread between all of my favorite night-fishing lures is their dark color. The in­ner anatomy of a bass’s eye al­lows for keen distinction of ob­jects that are black at night. Therefore, when fishing brush­piles I rely a lot on dark-colored plastic worms. Dark colors like black, plum and red shad sil­houette best, but I use the calen­dar to dictate size selection on plastic worms, using 7-inch worms early in the summer and pro­gressing to larger 10-inch varieties by August. For ledges, points and scattered stumps, few lures ever invented are as effective as the new Booyah Titanium Night Spinnerbait. Both a 3/8- and 1/2-ounce version are available, and I let the depth of water dic­tate which size I choose, using the heavier half-ounce for deeper water. The beauty of this new bait is that its big round Col­orado blade vibrates like crazy, yet its wire lasts twice as long than comparable stainless-wired night spinnerbaits plus it has a black skirt. When retrieved slowly this new titanium spin­nerbait produces tremendous vi­brations that are critical for both the fish and the angler to feel at night.

If the fish are aggressive enough, and you want to experi­ence more excitement than your nerves can stand, tie on a black-bladed, black-skirted, 3/8-ounce Booyah buzzbait. I’m not sure who gets the biggest thrill, the bass or the bass angler, from listening to this squeaking creature move across the surface, but I do know that it’s probably the most exciting form of bass fishing I experience each summer.

The bottom line is that night-fishing is very exciting! Fishing at night awakens one’s senses and makes for an adventure of sorts. But as is the case with any adventure, put safety first. Night-fishing is not the time to begin exploring new bodies of water or portions of a lake. Stay in areas that you’re familiar with navigat­ing. Have ample lighting on board, make sure your boat’s navigation lights are working properly and carry a map or GPS. You should also inform loved ones of your destination and a time when they can expect you home — if your’re going to fish all night, then make sure they know of your plans. Carry a cell phone if you have one. And by all means wear your personal flotation de­vice when navigating.

Remember, the best time to go fishing is anytime you can, but I’ll take one night trip over three day trips when the summer sun is as hot as it is right now.

Fishing Equipment That Tackles Cats

Are you one of those fisher­men who loves a good fight so much that when it’s over, you’re really not sure who won the bout? I know I am. Some fish will just about al­ways give you a full three-minute round, and some are so tough, a round can last twice that long without you even hearing the bell!

I bet you already know what freshwater fish I’m talking about. Yes, that’s right. It’s those hard-pulling, line-stretchin’, reel-smokin’, whiskered things called catfish!

I can’t begin to tell how much I enjoy catching these fish. It’s something I really look forward to every summer. Their brute strength, power and will to live will give you one of the biggest thrills in fishing once you get one hooked. Naturally, there will be days when the number of fish and the size of catches will vary.

I want to offer some of my ideas on the best selection of equipment for this type of fishing: rods, reels, line, bait and hooks.

When it comes to fishing rods for cat fishing, the aver­age cat man doesn’t need a lot of different rods to cover all the situations he’ll experience. More times than not, he can get by with one type rod action and length for most situations — when I say most situations, I’m referring to cases where you’re mostly fishing for cats in the 1- to 10-pound class.

For this, a moderate-fast, medium-heavy power rod is ideal. This action has a mod­erate tip. The upper third of the rod has a moderate fast ta­per. The flex of the rod carries into the midsection and the strong butt section does not flex at the hook-­set, which al­lows for better hook penetra­tion.

An excellent rod for the av­er­age catfish angler is one like the 6-1/2-foot Rhino rod by Zebco — it provides the per­fect action and power to han­dle the average cats we catch. A little later we’ll dis­cuss an ideal rod for catfish over 20 pounds.

When I talk about rod ac­tion, I’m referring to the bend of the rod and when I say power, that’s the strength of the rod, and when it comes to strength.

A nice reel for this type of fishing is a Quantum Iron IR3W baitcast­ing model that has a wide spool. It also has a solid frame, tough gears and enough line capacity for most conditions you fish. This size reel will support about 180 yards of 14-pound test mono.

It’s smart to use the strongest, low stretch monofil­ament line you can use. One that I recom­mend is Stren’s Magnathin in either 20- or 30-pound test. Both line tests have a smaller diameter than any other brand of the same test. The smaller diameter allows for greater castability and more sensitivity, yet provides plenty of strength to horse heavy fish. For example, 30-pound Magnathin has an out­side diameter of about 17-pound test, and 20 has a di­ame­ter of about 12- to 14-pound test.

Since we’re discussing equipment, let’s spend a minute and talk about hooks.
In selecting catfish hooks, it’s smart to use the smallest hook you can get away with. Catfish have plenty of soft flesh around their mouths, and small hooks penetrate quicker than big hooks. Cats also have powerful jaw muscles, and when they clamp down on your bait, a smaller hook is easier to move on the hook-set. Regardless of the hook you choose to use, it needs to be strong and sharp. My choice is this funny-looking one with the odd bend. It’s called a “Whisker Sticker,” and let me tell you, ever since I began using it, my hook-sets have im­proved bet­ter than 75 percent. The majority of the fish I catch when using this hook are hooked in the corner of the mouth. This makes it much easier to remove. I find that the most productive size is the size 1 for most situations. For big­ger cats the 2/0 - 4/0 size is a good choice.

When it comes to bait for cat­fish, the list is endless — there are dip baits, dough baits, paste baits, meat baits, dead and live baits.

I said earlier we’d talk about an ideal rod and reel to use when fishing for really big cats with heavier sinkers and line. It’s a Catfish Stick that a moderate tip action, but ta­pers fairly quickly into the mid-section to more of a medium-heavy action with a heavy action butt section. This beefy action allows you to han­dle a sinker weight of 3- to 6 ounces fairly easily, and the ac­tion of this stick allows you to handle a re­ally big cat if you’re fortunate enough to get him on.

As far as reel goes for this rod, my suggestion is to use a much larger one, similar to a light, saltwa­ter version equipped with at least 30-pound test line.

This iron reel I’m using has a 6.1:1 retrieve ratio and will retrieve on a full spool almost 34 inches of line per turn of the handle. It has an easy-to-get-to spool release lever, a synchro­nized level wind, a one-piece aluminum frame, high perfor­mance magnum gears and an extra strong power handle. It’s an ideal reel for large cats.

When fishing for bigger fish, my choice in hooks would be Gamakatsu Hooks Kahle style in a 4/0 to 7/0 size.

If you want to have more doggone fun—or should I say cat-gone fun—than you could ever imagine, get yourself some good equipment and head out to some creek, river, lake or pond and give this type of fishing a try. I promise, you won’t be sorry!

If you think you might like to give the Mississippi River a try — I suggest you time your visit from about late summer to early fall.

Deep Water Crankkin'

As my good friend and noted outdoor book author, Tim Tucker once said, “Over the past decade, the deep-diving crankbait has won over a legion of follow­ers that stretch from one end of this country to the other. Crankbait fishing has become a real art to dedicated diving lure fishermen, who have taken the time and effort to learn it’s intri­cacies. These knowledgeable an­glers have taken the crankbait from it’s “dummy-bait” reputa­tion to an advanced form of an­gling.

In the hands of a talented fish­erman who understands the prin­ciples of advanced deep-water crankbaiting, these diving baits are the most versatile of all fish­ing tools. With the proper educa­tion and enough practice, it’s possible to catch bass in place you could never reach — places you had avoided — or places where you never fished before.
With this in mind, I’d like to devote today’s column to the art of fishing these high percentage lures.

With super deep cranking, you need to understand the laws of physics. There are four re­quirements for extra-deep crank­ing — a long cast, light line, long rod and proper bait. A long rod that’s seven to seven and a half foot in length, accomplishes eight tasks, it allows:

• for more casting distance
• you to cover more wa­ter
• your bait to achieve greater depth
• the bait to stay in the strike zone longer
• you to move more line quicker
• for a better hook-set from a distance
• provides an even shock ab­sorber action, much like a fly rod
• and finally, it allows more lever­age on the fish during the fight.
  

OK, now let’s discuss another requirement and that’s the size of the line. What’s important here is the size of line used, dictates depth not in regards to the pound test of it, but the actual diameter of the line. The larger the diameter of the line, the more depth-robbing friction that’s created as the line is being pulled through the wa­ter.

When fishing, keep in mind, that what­ever line test you use, consider the actual diameter of the line. My choice for deep cranking is Magnathin, which has the small­est diameter for each pound test­ing rating. Example: 12-pound test Magnathin has an outside di­ameter of about 8-pound test regular monofilament.

Alright, now let’s discuss the final part of those four require­ments and that’s the proper lure.
Things to look for in a crankbait can be: a lip that allows it to dive vertically quickly, rather than horizontally; the ability to dart off objects without hanging; and maybe some rattles or sound chambers for added attention.

Other factors to consider are buoyancy, size, and overall design. With the latter in mind, note that there are times when a tight, fast-wiggling crankbait is more appealing to the bass than a wider, slower wobble. Other times the opposite is true. This is something you will have to experiment with.

Something else I’ve found out is that I seem to have better success in colder water with fat-body baits and with flat-sided baits in warmer water.

A discussion on deep-diving crankbaits would not be com­plete without talking about the best type of reel for this ap­plication.

Over the past 15 years or so, reel manufacturers have made tremendous strides in increasing the take-up speed of their prod­ucts. Today five-to-one and even six-to-one hi-speed reels are as common as knee-high tackle boxes. But with all of this, don’t get the idea that faster means better when it comes to crankbait fish­ing.

More speed does not neces­sarily translate into more depth. You need to realize that the high speed reels are moving your lure almost twice as fast as a slower ratio reel will.

Don’t make the mistake of be­lieving that the faster you crank, the deeper the lure goes. Two critical things happen when you try and burn the lure with a fast retrieve.

First, it effects the action of the lure and secondly, it won’t run at the same depth. Once you overcome the buoyancy factor of the lure itself, it will run at its deepest from that point. To gain maximum depth control usu­ally requires a moderate, comfortable re­trieve.

Let me tell you why a lower gear ratio reel works best for this kind of fishing:

• lower gear ratio means slower retrieve speed and more power
• it forces the angler to fish a crankbait at a slower speed
• it maximizes depth and lure per­formance.
• lower gear ratio takes less ef­fort to retrieve with high resis­tance lures
• it causes less fatigue on the an­gler
• 4.4:1 (4 point 4 to 1) works best for deep-diving crankbaits, and is ideal for best lure action and speed.
  

Example: A 6.1 reel retrieves ap­proximately 28 inches of line per turn of the handle; a 5.1 is 22 inches; and a 4.4:1 to 18 inches, which is ideal.

Slower retrieves allows the lure to achieve greater depth by allowing the bait to work verti­cally, not horizontally — allowing a more deliberate, natural bait action as it digs the bottom and bumps structure — and it keeps the bait in the strike-zone longer

What a Gift

As a youngster growing up I was truly blessed, because I had both a dad and granddad that loved fishing as much as I did, and they took me with them as much as possible. Without that, I doubt I’d be doing what I’m do­ing today. They gave me the most pre­cious gift of all—a gift that lasts a lifetime!

Even though he has been gone for many years, I can still hear my granddad saying something I heard him say many times.

“I’d rather catch one bass on top of the water than 10 below the surface.” He may have been exaggerating just a little, but it’s something that has al­ways been true for most of the bass anglers I’ve known. No lure produces more ex­citement than a topwater! This is because you not only hear the strike, but you see it, too.

Rare indeed is the fisherman who doesn’t thrill to the sud­den strike of a bass exploding into a lure on the top of the water. I think most of us will have to admit we’d rather catch a bass on top than any other way.

There are five keys to topwa­ter success that are impor­tant to remember: the first concerns water temp and water clarity—slightly stained to clear water is best when the surface temp is above 65 de­grees. Second, you should fish your lure as close as possible to an object or irregular fea­ture. This can be either visible or submerged. Third, whenever possible, cast toward the sun. Fourth, establish a rhythm. It’s the rhythm of a lure that at­tracts bass. And fifth, don’t set the hook until you feel the weight of the fish.

By fishing a topwater plug near objects, the shoreline or ir­regular features, you’ll in­crease your chance for a strike, because bass use these features as a blocking force.
Predator fish like to trap their prey against something such as a log, stump, weed-bed, the bank itself or whatever.

By casting into the sun, your lure will produce a better sil­houette on the surface, plus it will appear slightly larger than it actually is. This helps hide the fact that it’s an artificial of­fering instead of the real thing.

When a fish hits a topwater bait, it’s critical to wait that extra second or two until you feel the fish. This is one of the hardest things to learn about this type of fishing—you have to give the bass enough time to get the plug into his mouth so you can get good hook pene­tration when you set the hook.

When a fish hits a topwater lure, regardless of what kind it is, he’s sucking in water, air and your lure all at the same time. If he’s in vegetation, he’s got that to cope with as well.
The way you retrieve the lure determines the rhythm. Rhythm is determined by the length of the jerks or pulls and the length of the pause be­tween them.

Perhaps my most productive rhythm or presentation is a twitch, twitch, twitch, pause, twitch, twitch, twitch allowing the lure to sit for approxi­mately three seconds or so in the pause posi­tion. It’s impor­tant to experiment with differ­ent re­trieves until the fish tell you what they want at that time.

To obtain the best action with this lure, it’s best to use a medium-light rod with mod­erate flex and soft tip. This type rod action will allow for better casting control and permit you to work the lure with less effort!

To entice strikes on a bait of this type, it should look, sound and appear vulnerable as well as edible. The action should sug­gest that it’s in trouble. An in­jured, unwary forage fish will unknowingly convince a bass to bust it!

Many fish are caught off structure, as simple as this sounds. When most an­glers hear the word structure, they think of a submerged creek channel ledge, a ridge, bar or drop-off way out in the lake, but let me tell you, there’s plenty of shallow structure in close to the shoreline. To de­fine structure for those not familiar with the term, consider “structure” to be the floor of the lake extending from the shallows on out to deeper wa­ter. More precisely, it is the unusual or irregular fea­tures on the lake bottom that make it different from the sur­rounding bottom areas.

As a general rule, for any type of structure to be produc­tive, it needs to have immediate access to deeper water. This rule applies regardless of whether the struc­ture is a foot deep or 35 feet deep.

Bass consider the quick pas­sage to deeper water an escape route from predators or any type of danger. Call it instinct or habit, bass normally won’t wan­der very far from that es­cape route. Like a submarine, bass want the option of crash diving when they feel the need. Also this change of depth af­fords bass the opportunity to escape light penetration, and it gives them more latitude in choosing both pH and tem­perature ranges they prefer.

The two most important con­siderations regarding structure are depth, the basic structural feature or type of spot and the ambush point in the area.

As I said earlier, we’re con­centrating on structure along the shoreline—any place where there’s noticeable depth change, like a point where the contour lines from a depth change on the right side, at the mouth of a ditch, creek or de­pression where the deepest water occurs, a shallow rise in close to shore, a deeper bank and a pocket or cove where a depth change takes place.
Naturally, the farther these lo­cations are separated, the more productive they’ll be, and if cover is present, whether visible or not, they’ll be even more attrac­tive.

I’m fairly sure I wouldn’t be doing what I’m doing to­day if it were not for my Dad and Granddad taking the time to introduce me to this wonderful sport. The legacy they left me—a knowledge of and love for fishing—really was the most precious gift of all, and for me, it has been a gift that will surely last a lifetime! Why don’t you think about giving the same gift to some young­ster real soon? I’ll see you next time.